Rose venexiane … A Venetian spring rose itinerary

Rose color cremisi: Another post on the Venetian spring color wheel – crimson this is the color connected with roses flowering lavishly now all over Venice, and who knows, this might be the hue from which the rosso veneziano derives from … Discover private rose gardens in the sestiere di Dorsoduro, protruding from behind the walls, a rose pergola-covered restaurant garden where one could stop for a refreshing lunch, and an exceptional hotel rose garden on a walk from Campo San Rocco to the Accademia bridge. Here, Palazzo Civran Badoer is a garden famous for its formal rose beds, located just next to the Accademia bridge. Along the way, you can discover a boat selling vegetable and flowers as well, anchored next to Campo San Barnabà.

By mid-May, rose buds abound all over Venice. And Venice has a very special relationship with roses, not only with regard to the boccolo tradition (read my blog post on this traditional gift given to Venetian women on 25 April)But are there certain species, variants, and colors that one meets most often in Venice, so is there a special “rosa venexiana” variant ?? I would say it is crimson for the cultivated varieties, and a pale pink-white for the wild rose bushes (rosa canina) you can find so often in Venetian public gardens… A beautiful wild rose bush with candid white petals can be seen in the Giardini Reali as well … The colors of these roses might have been a model for the typical color of man Venetian facades, this typcial Venetian red hue (rosso veneziano).

Just behind Campo San Rocco, a flowery part of Venice begins, with crimson-colored roses protruding from behind the walls … most often, it is the bright crimson variant that abounds in Venice.

A close-up of the picture above: roses, and a view of an altana roof terrace (wisteria-wrapped, imagine what that must look like when the wisteria is in bloom …)

No matter where you go in Venice, you will come across flowering roses by now, sometimes protruding from secret red brick walls, sometimes cascading almost down to reach the waters of a canal flowing by, or in the flower beds of formal gardens in Venice centro-città and the less formal gardens, private gardens on the Lido and the lagoon islands.

Just to give you a few examples – here are some of “my” rose bushes that I tend to visit during June, and you will recognize different varieties all over the lagoon. The itinerary covers the three Venetian sestieri of Santa Croce, Dorsoduro and San Marco.

Campo San Rocco, with the Church of San Rocco; the facade of the Frari church next to it is shrouded with pittosporum plants … pictures above were taken on a slargo (square) just behind Campo San Rocco, and we will just turn back, cross Campo San Rocco and walk on into the other direction, pointing towards – San Marco, by the way. On your right-hand side, you cannot miss the entrance of a trattoria, overgrown with American vine, and the first thing you see when you enter the garden is margarite terracotta pots, thriving in the morning sun, half-shaded by the voluminous rose pergola.

There is a rose-overgrown trattoria garden, trattoria da Silvio, which is also open if you happen to pass early in the morning, so I walked in and took a deep breath, inhaling the sweet scent of the sprawling rose bushes above me. But this is a wild rose variant, as you can see in the pictures above.
Continue walking towards the University Ca’Foscari and Campo San Barnaba, where the famous vegetable boat is moored, and by the way, not selling only vegetables but also garden plants.

Then continue towards the Accademia bridge, crossing Campo San Barnaba and then walking on until you see another flower hotel garden, towards the Grand Canal, this time it is Pensione Accademia delle Maravegie, before you finally reach the bridge, designed by Eugenio Miozzi and opened in 1933.

Palazzo Civran Badoer: Roses climbing up the walls in a formal garden of a palazzo – by the way, in the rosso veneziano, and another landmark plant of Venice now in full bloom (from mid-May to the beginning of July, the pittosporum)

By the way, we use the buds of our roses growing in the garden to make rose syrup, and rose jam – the recipe of which you can find in my Shop on Traditional Venetian spices and cooking – Le Spezie della Serenissima.
For now, the rose paradise continues – when you step down from the Accademia bridge, and enter Campo San Vidal, you are greeted by yet another pale pink rose variant …

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2 Comments

  1. Après les glycines, les roses et voilà Venise délicatement parfumée…qui ose dire encore que Venise n'est pas verte???Je connais bien la trattoria da Silvio près de San Pantalon, j'aime beaucoup m'installer dans le jardin…c'est très agréable et pas très loin de mon ” Al Sole” habituel .Les jardins de Venise nous réservent de bien belles surprises.

  2. Mais oui, Venise est très verte, on les voit aussi ses verdures si on regard la carte Google. Et après les roses, on va voir les arbres de pittosporum qui sont aussi très parfumés, et l'année prochaine on va chercher le lilas … Bonne soirée!!

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